Mudanjiang

Lu's parents and cousin met us at the station as our train shuddered to a stop. We could see them from the window, smiling big and waving at us. There were quick greetings and we were swept into a taxi. Mudanjjiang is big! I was expecting something much smaller, but downtown looks like it was cut right out of Shanghai. We were dropped at a tall apartment complex somewhere in a maze of buildings and walked up 7 flights of stairs (Lu's dad and cousin insisting on carrying our luggage.) From the outside, the complex looks pretty run down so I was not expecting much as we opened the front door.

The apartment is amazing. Gleaming dark wood floors, stylish doors and cabinets, beautiful paint and color scheme, circular and geometric patterns in the walls and ceiling, gigantic television. It is all very modern. Ness and I are staying in Lu's old room, which is plenty roomy with wireless internet (yes!). Lu's family has been so good to us. As soon as we were settled, we went off to a fancy-pants restaurant – the kind that has doormen and private dining halls. Then followed a couple hours of pure deliciousness. The round dining table contained an inner carousel of vegetables and meats to be placed in the boiling hot pot near our plates. Naturally we encouraged to constantly eat, and eat we did. Lu's dad was fond of making toasts and Lu translated where she could. He welcomed us to China, said that no matter the political relations between our countries we are friends. He also made sure to note that although it is very cold in northern China, the hearts of the people are much warmer than in Shanghai. Lu's mother, cousin, and aunt were all smiles.

After the meal, we walked in the cold streets for a few blocks to recover from all the food. The traffic in Mudanjiang is just as crazy as in Shanghai. Taxis almost ran me down more than once. They don't stop or even seem to notice pedestrians. Traffic rules are suggestions rather than law, or perhaps more accurately, things to blatantly ignore. It reminds me of Dakar in that sense.

As we walked, we saw groups of people out in the streets burning piles of paper. Lu said it symbolized burning money for the ancestors, a tradition to be done in the days leading to the Spring Festival. The glow of fires was spread out in clusters down the city blocks, sending ashes out into the chilly winds. This is a cold that penetrates layers like a knife through soft butter. I had on several undershirts, sweaters, and a thick coat but I could still feel it.

At the apartment we gave Lu's mom an Estee Lauder skin care set I had picked out in the states (Lu had said she loves that brand and it's hard to get in China) and her dad a copy of our dad's CD. They seemed very pleased. I'm not really able to communicate with anyone besides Lu, and I admit it's a little awkward, but I feel very welcomed all the same.